Prepare Your Caravan For The New Season

If your caravan’s been sat for months, the first trip of the year can feel like a test of character. Not because caravanning is hard - but because a quiet winter has a way of turning small, boring issues into big, annoying ones. A sticky tap becomes a leak. A flat leisure battery becomes a no-heat evening. A tyre that looked “fine last autumn” becomes a roadside drama.

The good news: you don’t need to treat spring prep like a military operation, and you definitely don’t need to buy half a chandlery’s worth of gadgets. You just need a sensible walk-through that focuses on the things that actually stop trips - safety-critical items, water ingress, petrol and electrics, and the towing bits that make you feel steady rather than white-knuckled.

This is a practical, UK-focused way to prepare caravan for new season without the panic, the forum folklore, or the idea that there’s only one correct method.

Start with the unglamorous question: what changed since last year?

Before you touch a bottle of polish, take five minutes and think like a detective. Has the caravan been stored at home, on a farm, or in a compound? Was it under a cover? Did you use it in winter? Did you have any “it’ll do for now” moments on the last trip of the previous season?

Those answers decide your priorities. A van stored on a windy hillside with a flappy cover needs a careful look at seals, roof edges and any rubbing points. A van that sat under trees wants extra attention on gutters, awning rails and anything that holds damp leaves. A van used through winter needs a sharper focus on water systems and heating, because freezing conditions have a talent for exposing the weak link.

If you keep notes (even scrappy ones), this is where they pay you back. If you don’t, this is your invitation to start - not because you must, but because it makes next spring calmer.

A slow walk-round: bodywork, roofline and signs of damp

Damp is the topic that attracts the most drama, and it’s rarely helpful drama. Yes, water ingress matters. No, you don’t need to live in fear of it.

Begin outside, in good light, ideally when the caravan is dry. Look along the sides at a shallow angle. You’re not searching for perfection, just obvious changes: a new ripple, a split in a seal, a corner that looks as if it has been nudged. Pay attention to the roofline and the front and rear panels where water and road spray do their worst.

Now get closer and check the sealant around roof lights, windows, marker lights, the awning rail, corner steadies and any external hatches. You’re looking for gaps, cracking, lifting edges or sealant that’s gone chalky and shrunk back. If something looks tired but not actively failing, it goes on the “watch and plan” list. If you can see daylight where there shouldn’t be daylight, it goes on the “sort before travel” list.

Inside, use your nose and your hands. A musty smell, cold clammy corners, or a spongy feel around windows and roof lights deserves attention. Press gently on wallboards and around lockers. You’re not trying to prove a horror story - you’re trying to catch small issues early.

If you own a damp meter, use it as a pointer, not a verdict. Readings vary by construction type, temperature and where you press. A single high number isn’t automatically a catastrophe, and a single low number isn’t a lifetime guarantee. What matters is patterns, changes, and whether you can match a reading to a visible source.

Ventilation and winter storage: the boring hero

Most damp anxiety comes from conflating two different problems: water getting in, and moisture not getting out.

If your caravan’s been shut up tightly all winter with bedding left inside and nothing opened, the air will be stale, and you may see a bit of surface mould on seals or in corners. That’s usually condensation and lack of airflow, not a secret flood.

Open everything up on a dry day: windows on the night latch, roof vents, internal doors, lockers. Give it a proper airing. Wipe any surface mould with an appropriate cleaner and dry the area. Then take a view on how you store it going forward. Some people like moisture absorbers, some don’t bother. The key is ventilation and not trapping damp materials inside.

If you used a caravan cover, check for rubbing and trapped moisture points. Covers can be brilliant, and they can also create their own microclimate if fitted poorly or left flapping. Again: no dogma. Just look at your evidence.

Tyres, wheels and running gear: the things that quietly decide your day

Tyres are a classic “looks fine” trap, because a tyre can look perfectly respectable while ageing out.

Start with tyre age. In the UK you’ll find a DOT code on the tyre sidewall showing the week and year of manufacture. Regardless of tread, most caravanners treat around 5-7 years as the point to replace, depending on storage and condition. If yours are older, it’s not instant doom - it’s a nudge towards planning, especially if you do long motorway runs.

Check for cracking on the sidewalls, bulges, flat spots from storage, and any odd wear. Then set pressures to the caravan manufacturer’s recommendation for your axle load - not a random “caravan tyres should be X” number. Pressure is one of those places where specifics matter.

While you’re there, check the wheel bolts/nuts for condition and make sure your wheel brace and locking wheel nut key are actually in the caravan. It sounds silly until you’re on a wet hard shoulder playing hide-and-seek with a missing adaptor.

Underneath, look at the chassis and running gear for obvious corrosion, damaged cables, hanging plastic undertrays, or anything that looks like it has had a nibble (rodents are not known for their respect of your touring plans). If your caravan has shock absorbers, check for leaks. If it has an AL-KO ATC or similar system, check the indicator and any handbook guidance for seasonal checks.

Brakes, breakaway cable and hitch: confidence lives here

A caravan that tows poorly will make even an experienced driver feel tense. The best “new season” prep you can do is making sure the tow coupling and stabiliser are clean, adjusted correctly and not worn.

Inspect the hitch head for damage and check the stabiliser pads for wear and contamination. If you’ve ever towed with the stabiliser on a greasy towball, you’ll know the special kind of squeal it produces. Clean the towball properly and keep it grease-free if you use a friction stabiliser. (If you don’t use a stabiliser, your towball may need light greasing - it depends on the coupling type, so follow the manufacturer’s guidance rather than folk wisdom.)

Check the breakaway cable for fraying and correct attachment points. This is one of those areas where the internet can turn a simple thing into a philosophical debate. The practical aim is straightforward: it must be attached to a proper designated point on the towbar, routed so it can do its job without dragging, and with enough slack for turns without being so long it can snag.

Jockey wheel: make sure it winds smoothly, clamps securely and the wheel itself isn’t cracked or seized. Corner steadies should wind down easily - if they’re stiff, don’t use brute force and optimism. A bit of cleaning and lubrication (on the threads and moving points, not on friction surfaces that should stay clean) often restores normal service.

If you’re a beginner or you had a wobbly towing moment last season, it can help to revisit fundamentals rather than blaming your nerves. This is where a calm refresher like Towing a Caravan for Beginners: Calm, Confident Starts or Towing a Caravan: Confidence Tips That Work can make the first run of the year feel normal again.

Battery, 12V system and the reality of “it was fine last time”

Leisure batteries hate being ignored. If your caravan has been in storage without hook-up, your battery may be low or sulphated. If it’s been on permanent hook-up without a smart charger, it may also be tired. Either way, spring is when you find out.

Check the battery’s condition, connections and charge level. Clean any corrosion on terminals and ensure clamps are tight. If the battery won’t hold charge, accept it early and replace it rather than trying to rescue it with hope on a bank holiday weekend.

Test the 12V lights, water pump, flush pump (if fitted), motor mover (if fitted) and any USB sockets. Motor movers in particular like a pre-season check because the remote battery is always the first thing to die, and the isolation switch is always the first thing to be forgotten.

On mains electrics, check the RCD trips correctly and the consumer unit behaves as expected. Inspect your hook-up cable for cuts, crushed sections and damaged plugs. If it’s been stored damp, dry it out properly. If you use a mains lead adapter, check that too.

If electrics make you uneasy, that’s normal. The aim isn’t to become an electrician - it’s to confirm the basics work and anything suspect gets looked at by someone qualified.

Petrol system: safe, calm checks (and when to get help)

Petrol is another topic that attracts unnecessary bravado. Treat it with respect, not fear.

Start with the cylinder: check it’s secure, check the hose condition and date (many hoses have a replacement interval), and inspect the regulator for signs of corrosion or damage. If you use a pigtail and bulkhead regulator, check connections are tight and the rubber isn’t perished.

Turn the petrol on and do a simple smell check around the locker and inside, with appliances off. Then light one appliance at a time according to the handbook - hob first is often easiest - and confirm a clean flame. If anything smells strongly of petrol, don’t “see if it goes away”. Turn it off, ventilate, and get it checked.

A professional petrol safety check is a sensible periodic expense, particularly if you’re new to caravanning, you’ve bought second-hand, or anything about the system is unknown. It’s also a good way to reset your confidence without becoming obsessed.

Water system: flush, check, and accept you might need a new connector

Water prep is where you can waste hours chasing tiny leaks if you do it in the wrong order. Do it like this: clean, fill, pressurise, then inspect.

Sanitise the system if it’s been sitting. Different vans and owners use different methods and products, so follow your manufacturer guidance and use a product designed for caravan water systems. The main goal is to flush out stale water, reduce biofilm, and start the season with water that doesn’t smell like it’s been stored since the Jubilee.

Once filled, run each tap and the shower, check the toilet flush, and look at every visible joint. Pay attention under sinks, behind access panels and around the water heater. Leaks often show up as a slow weep, not a dramatic spray.

If you have an on-board tank, check it drains and refills properly and the drain valves are closed when they should be. If you use an Aquaroll-style container, check the cap seal and the condition of the pump and hose.

And yes, there’s a decent chance your first issue will be a £3 O-ring in a connector that has decided it’s had enough. That’s not a moral failing. It’s just caravanning.

Heating, hot water and the first proper test run

Don’t leave heating and hot water until the first night away. Test them on the drive, with time to think.

On electric heating, check it runs on each setting. On petrol heating, listen for normal ignition and stable running. For combination systems, confirm the controls do what you think they do. If you’re not sure, this is a great moment to read the manual with a cup of tea and no pressure.

For the water heater, test hot water on electric and petrol modes (if you have both). Check the pressure relief outlet isn’t blocked and that any drain or frost protection valves are operating correctly. If your system has an automatic frost protection valve, remember it may dump water if temperatures are low. That can surprise people and convince them something is “leaking”, when it’s actually doing its job.

Fridge: the patience test

Caravan fridges can be brilliant, but they don’t behave like your kitchen fridge. If you switch it on and immediately decide it’s broken because it isn’t icy in ten minutes, you’ll have an unnecessarily stressful afternoon.

Clean the vents, check the flue area is clear (no cobweb city), and ensure the external fridge vents are unobstructed. Then test on mains first, because it’s usually the most straightforward. Give it several hours to pull down temperature.

If it works on electric but not on petrol, that’s useful information for a technician. If it works on neither, check you’ve actually got 230V supply, and check any relevant fuses. Again: calm diagnosis beats frantic button-mashing.

Washroom and seals: small checks, big comfort

Check the toilet cassette seal, the blade operation and the condition of the flush system. A dry or cracked seal can cause smells and leaks that make the whole caravan feel “a bit grim”, even though the fix is often simple.

Look at shower tray corners and the sealant line. If you find any gaps, deal with them properly. Water finding its way behind panels in the washroom is one of the quickest routes to expensive problems.

Also check the roof vent above the washroom, because it’s an easy place for condensation and smells to linger if it’s been shut for months.

Windows, blinds, flyscreens and the art of not forcing things

After storage, blinds and flyscreens can stick. Handles can feel tight. Window stays can creak. Most of this responds well to gentle cleaning and patience.

Open each window and rooflight, check the catches engage, and clean the rubber seals. If a blind is reluctant, don’t yank it like you’re starting a lawnmower. Slow, careful movement usually frees it up, and if it doesn’t, you’ve learned something before you’re parked up in the rain.

Deep clean, but make it tactical

A full spring clean is satisfying, but don’t let it distract you from the functional bits. Clean in the order that prevents rework: start high, work down, and do the inside before you obsess over exterior shine.

Inside, vacuum lockers and check for signs of pests. Wipe hard surfaces, clean upholstery as needed, and wash bedding if it lives in the caravan. If you stored the caravan with cushions on their sides for airflow, put everything back properly.

Outside, a gentle wash is often enough. Check what your caravan manufacturer recommends for cleaning products, especially for acrylic windows. Harsh products can do real damage. If you’re going to polish, do it because you enjoy it, not because you think the Caravan Police are coming.

Documents, cover, security and all the admin you’ll thank yourself for later

This is the part that feels dull right up until the moment it saves you a day.

Check your caravan insurance dates, what you’re covered for (storage compound, theft, contents, overseas if applicable), and whether any security requirements are in place. If you use a hitchlock or wheel clamp, check you can find the keys and that the lock still works smoothly.

Confirm your breakdown cover includes caravans, not just the tow car. Some policies look similar until you need them. If you’ve changed tow car, check the policy details match reality.

Now check your driving licence and whether anything about your outfit has changed since last season. If you’ve upgraded the caravan, changed the car, added a mover, fitted a battery, or started travelling with more kit, your weights may have shifted. If that sentence makes your brain go fuzzy, you’re not alone - and a calm explainer like Caravan weights in the UK, explained calmly is a sensible reset.

Restock: think “first night away”, not “expedition to the Arctic”

The best restock is the one that stops you driving to a supermarket at 9 pm in the rain.

Check petrol level, toilet chemicals (if you use them), kitchen basics, and a small box of spares that are genuinely useful: a couple of fuses, spare bulbs if your caravan uses them, tape, a few hose washers, and the odd connector that always seems to go missing.

If you carry tools, keep it modest and relevant: a decent screwdriver set, adjustable spanner, tyre pressure gauge, torch, and gloves covers most real-life faff without turning your front locker into a mobile workshop.

First-tow checks: do them once, then trust your process

The first tow of the season is when confidence wobbles, even for people who’ve towed for years. Not because you forgot how, but because you’ve had a break.

Give yourself time. Rushing is the single biggest cause of silly mistakes.

Do a proper hitch-up routine and stick to it. Check the hitch is engaged, jockey wheel up and clamped, steadies up, handbrake off at the right moment, breakaway cable attached correctly, electrics connected, lights working, mirrors fitted and adjusted, and the load inside the caravan is sensible. Heavy items low and near the axle is still good advice - not because the internet says so, but because physics does.

If you’re trying to keep things calm, avoid “auditing” yourself mid-drive. Pick a quiet route, build up speed gradually, and stop after a few miles to recheck straps, doors and anything you’re unsure about. That one early stop often prevents the spiral of doubt.

When to DIY, when to book a service, and how not to feel judged either way

There’s a strange pressure in caravanning culture to either do absolutely everything yourself or to pay for everything and never lift a finger. Real life is in the middle.

DIY is fine for cleaning, visual inspections, simple replacements like hose washers, and learning how your systems work. A professional service is sensible for brakes, bearings, chassis checks, petrol safety testing, and anything electrical that’s beyond your comfort zone. If you’re buying used, a proper inspection early on can stop you inheriting someone else’s “that’ll be fine”.

The correct approach is the one that keeps you safe and relaxed enough to enjoy the trips. You’re not trying to impress anyone in a lay-by.

If you like learning in a calm, no-drama way, you’ll find more confidence-building guides and community support at CaravanVlogger - the whole point is to make the practical side feel manageable, not mystifying.

A simple timeline that actually works

If you want a structure without turning this into a clipboard obsession, think in three passes.

A week or two before your first trip, do the big functional checks: tyres, hitch, brakes check (visual), battery, petrol, electrics, and a damp-aware look inside and out. A few days before, do the water system sanitise and test heating, hot water and fridge so you’ve got time to sort problems. On the day before or morning of travel, focus only on loading, hitch-up routine, lights and mirrors - and then go.

That’s it. Not glamorous, but it’s the difference between a first weekend away that feels effortless and one spent troubleshooting.

The real win with spring prep isn’t a caravan that looks showroom-new - it’s pulling out of the drive thinking, “I’ve checked the important stuff, I’ve left myself time, and whatever minor faff happens next, I can handle it.”

Where Next?

Prepare Your Caravan or The New Season is part of the “Caravan Ownership - What Really Matters” guide on CaravanVlogger.

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